Nearing the End

As I prepare to come home at the end of this week, on the day the world is supposed to end, I figured I would address a few questions which are bound to be frequently asked if I do indeed survive. In my hope to not have to repeat my answers repeatedly until blue in the face, here is my attempt at a preemptive strike. After all, the best defense is a good offense.

Did you have a good time?  Nope. I would much rather have been working.

Are you glad to be home? Yup and Nope

What was your favorite country? Every country not named South Africa. Sorry, Kelly Hook.

No, seriously, what was your favorite country? A few come to mind. Namibia was amazing. Great game drives and such varied scenery. Canyons, colorful dunes, ocean, and nearly every animal under the sun. Turkey also makes the list. Food, cleanliness, and again the varied landscape. Argentina is a late comer to this conversation as it is the last country on my trip. Good food, craft beer, wine, and great hiking. When you talk about the Andes mountains, very few places on Earth are more beautiful.

Why was South Africa your least favorite country? Because I saw my life flash before my eyes when a very pleasant man threatened to gut me if I didn't give him all of my South African Rand. That's not totally fair to South Africa though. Those were obviously my least favorite few minutes of the trip, but aside from that, I did enjoy my time in South Africa. Other countries which underwhelmed: Thailand, Vietnam, and Uruguay. In fairness to these countries as well, just because the places I visited within those countries were slightly underwhelming, doesn't mean that if I were to go back again I wouldn't find places which would totally amaze me.

Are there places you would go back to? Yup. I would definitely go to Antarctica again. I know I had spectacular weather, which undoubtedly wouldn't be repeated, but there is lots more to see down there. I would also go back to Australia, Argentina, Chile, and China mainly because all of those countries have so much more which I didn't see. A mix of great food and wine, tons of hiking, and other beautiful scenery could keep me going back to those places for years.

What countries would you recommend to other people? Again, kind of tough to answer. I would always take with a grain of salt advice given to me by other backpackers on this trip the 'places I had to see.' You never know if the place was actually spectacular or if they were with a great group of people which made their time there more special than it would have been if traveling alone. And just because I did amazing things in almost every country which I visited, doesn't mean it is a country I would recommend visiting. Jordan is a good example of this. The sightseeing at Petra was arguably the single best day of ancient ruin sightseeing I have had during any of my travels, and I loved taking a dip in the Dead Sea, but Amman wasn't much too write home about. I would definitely recommend including Jordan as part of a longer trip, but I don't know that I would necessarily make Jordan the only destination of a vacation. Same goes for Angkor Wat and Cambodia. It is a close 1a with Petra in terms of ancient ruins sightseeing, but I can't say I would recommend the rest of Cambodia as a must see country as a stop on a family vacation. I would definitely recommend parts of alot of countries, and how you ultimately decide to see them would be up to you and your specific sightseeing interests.

What was your favorite continent? Man, you guys ask tough questions. Undoubtedly, the top 3 of the trip were Antarctica, Africa, and South America. The order is up for debate. If you know anything about geography and paid attention to the answer to the last question, you might be thinking to yourself, "Arguably the 2 things he enjoyed the most on his trip were in Asia, and that isn't one of his favorite continents?" Strange, but true. Some of the best moments were in Asia, but there was also Bangkok, the underwhelming Halong Bay in Vietnam, and a hectic nature about many of the countries which was a bit overwhelming. Picking a favorite continent though is kind of like asking a parent to pick their favorite child. I liked them all in most instances and had unforgettable moments on each and every continent.

So what are some of those unforgettable moments? Where to begin....How about with people?
--I laughed myself to tears with Tash when she introduced me to the slang term for red-heads which Aussies use. 'Ranga' which is short for orangutan.
--Stacey and I nearly died when driving the curvy roads of New Zealand, when our car stalled out on a steep downhill section. But she put her arm across my chest to ensure my safety. Witnessing an avalanche of sheep with her as we sat in our car was also pretty special.
--The 3 days hiking the Milford track with Phil and Kristie are memorable. Their kindness in sharing both conversation and food when all I had brought were Clif Bars made that trip much more enjoyable.
--The 6 days spent with Lori going through Angkor Wat and the rest of Cambodia came at a most crucial time during my trip. Southeast Asian weather and the grind of sightseeing in those conditions had been slowing wearing on me to the point I really wasn't enjoying myself that much. After bumping into her in the Bangkok train station, we then spent 6 days going through Cambodia which gave me a renewed energy that lasted the rest of time in Asia. Her personality, and positive energy, along with that smile she displayed while being assaulted by a monkey are things I won't soon forget.
--In the midst of having ATM issues while in China, Jayci, whom I'd only met about a day prior, lent me a sizable chunk of money which would allow me to finish my travels in China and comfortably make my way to South Africa. I was essentially still a stranger to her, and here she is lending me money. And even though it is something I never would have done, I could have just taken the money and not re-paid her. But she took me on my word that I would wire money back to her bank account so that she could continue her travels, and she continues to follow my travels.
--Too many moments to mention in Africa. 4 of the best months of my life. Amazing people, sights, animals, and many new friends for life.
--Meeting Victoria in Santorini, then being on the same flight to Dubrovnik. And she's from Baltimore (my hometown) with a birthday 1 day apart on the calendar. Strange coincidences always seem to find you when traveling.
--Getting to spend time with Scott, whom I'd met 6 yrs ago when in the Czech Republic, was great. It had been a year-long goal of ours to meet while we both traveling the world, and to actually make it happen, meant alot. We met in Serbia and he introduced me to his travel/girlfriend Julia. It was a fun few days of sharing travel stories over some local food and beer.
--Hanging out with George in Budapest was a nice trip down memory lane. He spent a year living with me and my family when I was a junior in high school. To get to see his country through his eyes was quite unique.
--The group of people I met while volunteering at Jatun Sacha in the Galapagos Islands made sweating during all of those hours of manual labor, much more enjoyable.
--The crew on the Inca Trail hike. I thanked you a few posts ago, and I still mention you guys to people I meet along the way.
--And most recently, the amazing group of people I met during the cruise to Antarctica. The sights were amazing but the drinking, dancing, and robe wearing made the trip more complete.

The sights:
--Great Ocean Road, Australia
--Milford Track, New Zealand
--Snorkeling the Perhentian Islands, Malaysia
--Angkor Wat, Cambodia
--Great Wall of China
--Everything about Namibia: dunes, adventure activities, sunsets, game drives, and varied scenery
--Mountain Gorilla trekking, Rwanda
--The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
--Petra, Jordan
--Cappadocia, Turkey
--Plitvice National Park, Croatia
--Galapagos Islands, Ecuador
--Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, Peru
--Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia
--Easter Island, Chile
--Antarctica
--Iguazu Falls, Argentina
.....just to name a few

You eat any weird food? Not as much as I thought I would. I did eat guinea pig while in Peru. Ate alot of different game meats in Africa including kudu, springbok, and warthog steaks, smoked bream, crocodile, BBQ guinea fowl, warthog spare rib, antelope stew, and mopani worms. I ate chicken feet, BBQ stingray, claypot frog, and fish head soup in Singapore. Didn't eat anything crazy in China. Saw a bunch of that stuff in local markets, but didn't want to take a chance on getting sick and missing out on other adventures. Best meals of the trip were the chili crab in Singapore, springbok steak in Namibia, moussaka in Mykonos, pumpkin dumplings and braised beef stew in Ljubljana, and the BBQ ribs on the outside deck of the cruise ship to Antarctica. The bleu cheese with rose petal dipping sauce we had at a wine tasting in South Africa was also out of this world.

Did you learn anything about yourself? Lots.
--I learned more patience. Planes, trains, and automobiles aren't always going to be on time. People aren't always going to be the people you want them to be. Life isn't always going to deal you a winning hand. But if you let all the bad stuff that happens to you linger around in your psyche you can become ignorant to everything else which is happening around you. And when you consider the amount of thought, planning, and money I put into this trip, letting the bad stuff just roll off my shoulders after short periods of anger and frustration was the best way to make sure I got the most out of my trip.
--I learned the type of woman with whom I would be most compatible. My friend Steph said to me while hiking in Rwanda that when looking for a partner they should have 5 things that are an absolute must, 5 things they absolutely cannot have, and the rest of the shit you just have to deal with. It's funny. Having seen as much of the world as I have and meeting the types of people I've now met, I can honestly say that qualities which at one time seemed important in a woman, don't seem quite as important anymore. So, you may ask, what are the qualities?
1. She has to get my sense of humor. And not just laugh at my jokes. I have a dry, sarcastic sense of humor. Doesn't mean she also has to have that same humor, but I think you can learn alot about a person through their humor. It speaks to their level of intelligence if they are able to connect the dots in their head as to why I  say what I say and why I think it is funny. It is also a way of having playful interactions, calling me out on BS, making me wish I thought I had thought of that witty comment first, and just generally finding those little moments in every day that can bring a smile to your face. (My friend Aaron contributed some of these insights at a dinner conversation the other night, which really put humor into this type of perspective).
2. Sports. I can't go too far down the list without mentioning sports. I don't think it is as big an issue as it once was, but she needs to have an appreciation for the fact that there are going be days where all I want to do is watch an athletic event. I don't want to have to explain myself, just let me have that time. It would be awesome if she had a rooting interest and understanding of sports as well, but a the very least, respect my interest and try to have some level curiosity about something which is so passionate to me.
3. She has to be outgoing. I'm typically not the most social person in strange, new, and uncomfortable social situations. She needs to be outgoing in a way that she can make me feel comfortable in such situations and not take 'No' for an answer if I am being hesitant to participate in the social events of the evening.
4. She must like to travel. And not in the way most Americans like to travel. She can't be a 4 star hotel, cruise ship, wait on me hand and foot type of person. She needs to have that sense of adventure where a long overnight road trip is exciting, staying in a hostel or camping is preferable to a week spent at an all-inclusive resort, and going to a foreign country and taking local transportation is more desirable than an organized tour.
5. I don't exactly know how to categorize this last one, but I'll go with, seeing life the way in which I see it. That may sound a bit close minded, but hear me out. Having a similar view on what is common sense. Problem solving in a rational manner. Appreciating the small things in life. Similar views on religion and how to raise kids. Being open minded. It's kind of a hodge-podge of thoughts thrown into one category, but you get the idea.
5a. She should be easy on the eyes. I gave you 5 things about the inside of the book, but you still have to like the cover.

--Bad stuff kind of speaks for itself. Smoking/Drugs, thoughtless, uneducated, lacking self awareness, and the opposite of everything I mentioned above.
--I would like to think I now have more of an appreciation for what I have at home, but I guess I will have to get back to you on that one.
--I learned that my first impressions are usually the right impressions.
--I learned that things usually have a way of figuring themselves out in the end.
--I learned that quality doesn't necessarily mean expensive.
--I learned that flying 1st class is totally worth it for long flights.
--I learned not be hungry before taking a LAN airlines flight because you will only be hungrier when the plane lands.
--I learned never to eat Chinese BBQ before a long flight.
--I learned that any group of people traveling together from the same country are equally annoying in hostels.
--I learned that online check-in is essentially a waste of time.
--I learned not to talk trash to an elephant.
--I learned never to ride horses named Tom.
.....and finally
--I learned to not wish for things to be something they aren't pretending to be. In doing a trip of this length, it is very easy to compare one place to another, one meal to the next, and want for every social interaction to meet unfathomable expectations. I visited the Great Ocean Road in February and I visited Lagos, Portugal in October. I found that I was a bit underwhelmed by Lagos because it was a smaller, less impressive version of The Great Ocean Road (GOR). But Lagos has never pretended to be the GOR. It can only ever be Lagos. And it's beautiful, stunning in fact. I find myself just trying to live in the moment and take each experience for what it's worth. I don't want to become jaded from jaw-dropping, mind blowing experiences because every person, place, or thing has it's own unique charm. If a place such as Lagos would have been the only place which I vacationed this year, it would have been one of the most beautiful places I had ever seen. I still need to see it that way. The world has so much beauty and some places are naturally going to be more beautiful than others. Just trying to appreciate every person for who they are and each moment for what it is is a mindset I hope to use for the rest of my life.

Hopefully this gives you a general idea of answers to questions I've gotten along the way. I'm sure I'll answer many of these again, but perhaps there will be some other thought provoking questions to which I can give some insight. I'll probably have another post before the holidays, but if I don't, Happy Holidays to all. Cheers.

7 Down. None to Go.

For those who have been following my blog posts for most of the year, you are probably aware of how I have been singing the praises of the good weather which has followed me around for the past 11-ish months.

And then I went to Antarctica....

And nothing has changed.

I would like to tell you that I had to brave blizzard conditions, bitter antarctic wind chill, and rough seas which made me fear for my life....but I can't.

I would like to tell you that the skies were overcast, the animals underwhelming, and the glaciers dull and unimpressive....but I can't.

I would like to tell you that I was on a cruise ship with nothing but grey haired geezers, ate food unfit for a dog, and slept on a bed so hard and in a room so small that my back will never be the same again....but I can't.

What I can tell you is that I'm almost embarrassed by the amazing experiences which befell upon me over the last 9 days. I was on a cruise run by Quark Expeditions. They are a well known company who run trips during the summer months in both the Arctic and Antarctic. From the moment I stepped on the ship named Ocean Diamond, I was treated to nothing but luxury, a fun and knowledgeable staff, shockingly amazing weather, and scenery from arguably the most beautiful place in the entire world.

My 3 person bedroom was incredibly spacious. My bed was delightfully comfortable. The food was world class and I ate like a king. Truth be told, I probably ate like 3 kings, with an expanding waistline as proof positive. To my surprise, there was even a group of about a 12-15 people around my age, be it literally or in spirit, which provided a level of extraordinary social satisfaction I wasn't expecting at the start of the trip. After all, it isn't like a cruise to Antarctica is part of the typical backpacker agenda. The staff was extremely friendly, regularly mingling with us at the dinner table. They provided talks about all things Antarctica at least twice a day to give us a better understanding of the history and environment which consumed us for those 9 days.  They made sure our every need was catered to, and that whether on land or on water, we got the most fulfilling Antarctic experience possible. Above and beyond, Mission Accomplished.

So what is Antarctica like? Well, getting there involves navigating the roughest stretch of water in the world, the Drake Passage. On our way down to the continent, we were told the waters were about as calm as any of the staff had ever experienced. The waters were rougher on the way back. There was a little mis-communication between the captain and his first mate in terms of ballast and wind direction that had the boat listing to right on the way back, but even without that, the seas were still much rougher. This created quite a funny visual when watching people walk and spelled the end of more than a few drinking glasses, but still we were told, the seas could have been much rougher. Once officially in the region considered to be Antarctica, we had nothing but blue skies, bright sun, and stunning sunsets for the entirety of our time there. You hear stories of people who spend 3 months down there and may only have a day or two of good weather. We had 4 days down there and 4 days of stunning weather. There are massive mountains and glaciers. Those glaciers, and other huge chunks of ice floating in the water, were both blinding white with the sun's reflection along with numerous shades of blue which matched every shade of blue in the sky. We took zodiac boats from the ship to each landing site and spent about 90 minutes walking around the snow and ice while observing Gentoo, Adelie, and Chinstrap penguin colonies, Crabeater, Weddell, and Leopard seals, and a variety of other aquatic birds. Once done with land, we had a zodiac boat ride in and around the massive glaciers, mountains, and the aforementioned wildlife along with Humpback and Minke whales for about the same amount of time as was spent on land.....and we did this twice a day. Bear in mind, none of these landings or boat rides were ever a sure thing to happen. If weather was too treacherous or if ice was so thick as to prevent the zodiac boats from dropping us off on land, it was entirely feasible that we could have spent our entire time on ship, only ever seeing the continent from our windows or outdoor decks. The only landing we missed was at a research station, but we were still able to ride our zodiac boats in the waters at the foot of the majestic mountains and glaciers which this base calls home. We actually did miss what would have have been our final landing because we needed to get back to Ushuaia due to a passenger needing medical attention not available on the ship. Apparently this woman sneezed so hard so detached her retina. But at that point though, we had already been spoiled by so much good fortune that no one really minded relaxing on the boat, having a few drinks, having a few drinks, having a few drinks, dancing, having a few drinks, and reminiscing on what we had just experienced.

Penguins. Ah, the penguins. What a fun group of animals to watch with all of their mannerisms and interactions with each other. We were never allowed withing 5 meters unless they approached us to get a closer look at us. They are some of the most awkward walkers on land, but are graceful and dolphin like in their movement in water. There are penguin highways all through the snow and ice which they frequently use to get from waters' edge to their nest and colonies. I watched penguins mate, which was highly entertaining. And in the species we observed, a penguin with footprints on her back was the only way to determine male from female. We observed penguins picking up rocks in their beaks and bringing them to their nests, and then watched neighboring lazy and cunning penguins steal rocks from other nests to bring to their own. I saw a penguin and the egg it was warming, and many other interesting behaviors which made our time on land observing these creatures extraordinarily entertaining.

I camped in Antarctica. A sleeping bag and a bivy bag were the only things between me and the elements. No tent, by choice. I stomped down an area on the snow, placed the sleeping bag in the bivy bag, and slept with relatively few articles of clothing. Cold, but not unbearable. I actually didn't sleep that much because of some snoring around me, but during some rare moments of silence, you could hear the thunderous crashing of calving glaciers and mini avalanches. There were even some curious penguins wandering around tents and sleeping bags. Sun never did set. Just twilight. A truly unique and memorable experience.

I did a polar plunge in Antarctica. I've done a bunch of plunges at home to support Special Olympics. Never have I done a polar plunge in the middle of summer, but of course summer in Antarctica means temps around freezing. Did I mention I did a polar plunge inside an active volcano while in Antarctica? That's right. An ACTIVE VOLCANO. We plunged in the waters of a caldera inside an active volcano. You would think that might warm the waters, but it didn't. Truth be told, I have actually done plunges at home in waters equally cold, if not colder that what I did a few days ago, but to do a plunge in Antarctica was also a truly unique and memorable experience.

If you've ever thought about going to Antarctica, make it a reality. If you've never thought about it...start. Don't let fear of the elements deter you. Don't let money deter you. If you have alot of time, you can come down to Ushuaia at the beginning of November and wait over the course of a few months if need be to book a spot on a cruise to Antarctica at the very last minute. Ships, at that point, just want to sail at full capacity and you can get some amazing deals. There were rumors of the last spot on this trip going for about $1100 USD, much much less than what I paid. Antarctica is a beautifully stunning and spectacularly special place, one which very few people can say they have visited. And while I did my absolute best to try, pictures are no substitute for seeing Antarctica with your own two eyes. I hope all of you will someday get to experience what it feels like to visit this amazing continent.

So it's done. I have visited all 7 continents within 1 calendar year (and I just had a huge smile accompanied by chills all over my body when typing this sentence and then again when reading that sentence). I don't know what it means and I'm not entirely sure of all of the ways in which this adventure has changed me. What I do know is that I still have 2 weeks of travel remaining before finally going home just in time for Christmas. And while that also means resuming my career in the workforce is also just around the corner, I can't ever imagine having a day go by and not thinking about the amazing people and adventures which have made this year so memorable. Cheers.

(As an aside, I sat for about 5 hours in my hostel today in an attempt to upload pics to add to this blog. I mistakenly left the website and lost all of my uploads. So, I will try again at a later date. Might be when I return home in a few weeks that you finally get pics of Antarctica. Apologies).

Travel Hangovers

If you've never had one, try harder. And no, I'm not talking about drinking more. Those are alcohol induced hangovers which happen to occur while traveling. And while I've had a few of them during this trip, most frequently occurring during long travel days, those are an unhealthy, highly unpleasant type of hangover. Come to think of it though, travel hangovers are uniquely unpleasant and also result after a highly enjoyable series of events. So if both types of hangovers are unpleasant, why try to have a travel hangover? Let's explore.

First, what is a travel hangover? It is the best type of hangover you can have. It is the pseudo depression trade-off which sets in after an amazing experience is had while on vacation. It becomes a challenge to get out of bed and summon up the motivation to do just about anything because, deep down, you know whatever activity you do that day will pale in comparison to what was just completed the day before. And while you can plan vacations which could potentially result in a travel hangover, you can't actually plan on having a travel hangover. They just happen. The feeling which results from this type of hangover comes in other forms as well. Perhaps your team just got eliminated from the playoffs. Despite loving sports and having other sports to watch on the following days, sometimes you just can't bring yourself to watch anything because the emptiness which follows the end of an emotional playoff run leaves a void which only time can heal. Same with the travel hangover. Time will eventually cure a travel hangover, but while still in the healing phase following that amazing experience, subsequent vacation activities which seemed exciting during trip planning, are now activities which are barely exciting enough to get you out of bed. If this doesn't sound familiar to you, like I said, "Try harder."

So why is it that most people very rarely experience this travel hangover? Let's pretend this is an episode of Family Feud. 100 people surveyed, top 3 answers on the board. Why do most people take vacations? You hit the buzzer pretty fast and answer, "In order to go someplace and do something they enjoy." Sounds like the #1 answer, and it should be the #1 answer, but it's #3 on the board. Kind of baffling, isn't it? So what's #2? "I've got the time. It's been awhile since my last vacation. So I may as well take some time off." And the #1 answer on the board? "In order to recharge my batteries for when I go back to work." Sad, but true. Deep down, the reason most people probably go on a vacation, and choose the destinations where they spend a week or 2, is to simply recharge their 'desire to work' batteries. Think about how most people probably spend their vacation time. They go to an all-inclusive resort. They go on a cruise. They lay on a beach. Or maybe even the dreaded Stay-cation. They take vacations where they don't have to think, every last detail is planned for them, and inactivity is the predominant activity of the entire vacation. Where they go or what activities they do aren't important so long as they don't have to do anything. The most important aspect of almost every vacation is that they are anywhere but at work, and not the actual vacation destination itself. That's backwards. Yet in almost every instance, upon returning to work, these same people will now say that they need, "A vacation from a vacation." Come again? You just went on a trip where you didn't have to think, you were more lazy than you were active, and now you're so worn out that you need a vacation from a vacation? Rubbish. You don't need a vacation from a vacation. You just want more time off from work.

Now while there is certainly value in that type of vacation where rest, relaxation, and pampering is the main focus, it's a sad state of affairs if that is the predominant type of vacation one takes during their working years. It is virtually impossible to ever get a travel hangover from that type of vacation. You can't ever get tired of being pampered. It's not like you get this great massage one day and then refuse to get out of bed the next morning because the massage you are going to get that day won't be nearly as good as the one you had yesterday. Or, you think to yourself, "Man, that margarita I had yesterday while lying on the beach was so good I couldn't possibly have another one while lying on the beach today." You can lament the fact that those moments of that particular vacation are coming to an end. But that's not a travel hangover. That again is an, "I don't want to go back to work hangover."

Travel hangovers result after you plan a vacation for weeks or months and then have the perfect storm of a variety of factors come together such as: amazing weather, good company, a sense of accomplishment in completing something challenging, having your senses and emotions moved in ways you never thought possible, and experiencing a once in a lifetime event. I would even go so far as to argue that if your vacation experience doesn't include parts of all of those aforementioned factors, it is more less impossible to have a travel hangover.

Like I said, you can't plan travel hangovers. They just happen. Not every vacation or amazing activity is going to produce a travel hangover. But you can improve your odds of having one if, instead of doing the same vacation every year simply to recharge those 'desire to work batteries,' you plan a vacation which challenges you. Why not plan a vacation which could potentially inspire you take other unique vacations? Go on a challenging hike. Learn how to scuba dive. Sleep in a hostel. Go camping in the middle of nowhere. Take an overnight sleeper bus in a foreign country. Try a visually repulsive food. Learn a new language to speak with the locals. Throw all of your belongings in a backpack instead of a rolling luggage warehouse. Live on less and you'll learn so much more about yourself.

A vacation packed with adventure will probably do more to improve your mood at work than will a vacation lying on the beach. Exercise is a good stress reliever, yet most vacations to get away from the stressful workplace environment involve large amounts of laziness. I would venture to guess, that if you challenge yourself to do something exhilarating and potentially life changing while on vacation, work won't seem nearly as stressful upon your return. Your weekends will be filled with more eventful activities. Heck, you might even look forward to going back to work just so you can recharge your batteries for that next adventure. I know it sounds crazy, but there's more than a whiff of truth to that statement if you allow yourself to smell it. You'll no longer take vacations just for vacation's sake. You'll be looking for that next adventure that could possibly lead to that next travel hangover.

I'm off to Antarctica today. In about 3 days, I will be stepping on continent 7 of this 11 month trip. Like Angkor Wat, Africa/Petra, and the Inca Trail before it, I hope this is yet another experience which will lead to a travel hangover. And if it doesn't. Oh well. It's been quite a year which is quickly coming to an end. Hope everyone enjoys their weekend. I know I will. Cheers.

Head Over Handlebars About Easter Island

There are times when I can go weeks without thinking of anything interesting to write in a post and then there are days like today when I sit with 3 potential posts in mind. I'll eventually write them all, but this one comes first. And even though I write about Easter Island, there will be pics from the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Uyunia Salt Flats and Easter Island.

Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving. As luck would have it, on that Wednesday before Thanksgiving, a family friend of the owners of the hostel where I was staying, had come into town from Tahiti. To celebrate, they had this huge feast where they wrapped chicken, pork, and fish in banana leaves and then placed them in the Earth on top of hot embers. Blazing hot stones were then placed on top of the food, and the whole thing was covered in dirt and left to cook for around 3 hours. Lots of other side dishes were prepared and the owners invited those of us staying at the hostel to join them in a feast. It was an amazing meal and gave me an island Thanksgiving. Pretty special. The meal I actually had on Thanksgiving was pasta with canned tuna fish and avocado. Not quite as glamorous as the night before, but it didn't matter.

So, my last 4 days was spent in one of the most remote places on Earth, Easter Island. It is the land of the famous Moai statues. You know, those huge stone heads that actually do sit atop full bodies. As far as islands go, it was pretty, but there are definitely prettier islands to visit. And even though Easter Island is so remote, it was loaded with tour groups speaking a variety of different languages. It definitely isn't a place that is on the typical backpacker trail, but is certainly on the travel radar of many middle to older aged people wearing socks with sandals.

One of the things that bothers me when I travel is when I feel like I am seeing and doing the same thing as everyone else. You might be thinking, "This guy is on Easter Island and doesn't feel like he is doing something unique?" Yup. When you share sightseeing space with tour groups, especially on an island with 3 main roads, it starts to feel like everyone is seeing the same things and taking pictures of the same stuff. I take comfort in knowing that I am still probably seeing things a bit differently than most, as my photographic eye is better than your average tourist, but it was still tough to break away from the masses and feel as though I was seeing something that no one else was seeing.

Renting a bike for 3 days was how I chose to transport myself around the island. Not a flat island and not always paved roads where you would like them to be paved. I am not much of a bike rider, and before my trip this year, it had probably been about 10 years since I had last ridden a bike. So riding my bike over rocks, uneven dirt roads, and past curious horses and cows, was a bit uncomfortable for me. However, it did allow me to experience some things which most other tourists didn't: Saddle sore, copious amounts of sweat and extreme exhaustion. Not quite the unique I was looking for, but I guess beggars can't be choosers.

As far as the Moai statues go, they were quite impressive. I have consistently been amazed on this trip how people of these ancient civilizations transported such large stones from place to place to make temples, pyramids, and statues. Without the benefit of modern machinery, it was an amazing feat for them to do what they did. The Moai statues were all carved out of rock at one particular quarry and then the finished statues were dragged to all parts of the island to their final standing place. Not short distances, mind you. There were plenty of statues which fell during transport to their final destination and others which fell when trying to be erected on their platforms in the village. Can you imagine spending months and years on a statue only to have it break? All of the Moai, but for 7, face inland. Facing inland was the position of the Moai so that they could protect each village. The 7 that don't, face the sea and pay homage to those who discovered the island.

So, am I head over handlebars because I rode my bike successfully around the island without falling? Nope. I'm head over handlebars because after I was done taking pictures of the Moai, with the night sky as a backdrop, my friend Dano and I actually fell head over handlebars in a moped accident. Out of all the places I've been, especially with the craziness that is Southeast Asian traffic, the remote Easter Island is the place where I get into an accident. Some jerk on a motorcycle crossed in front of us to get into a nightclub parking lot and stopped in the road before fully getting to the parking lot. So his entire back end was protruding into the street. Dano hit the brakes hard, but our momentum still carried us into his back wheel and we both fell over the handlebars of the moped. That guy then sped off, which started a disappointing chain reaction of events related to the human condition. Good news, relatively minor injuries for the two of us, all things considered. My camera got a bit dinged, but is still entirely functional. The biggest loss of the night was Dano's cell phone, which was stolen by a local pretending to 'help.' He of course, denied taking it. But after rushing into the bar following his 'helpful' deed, he returned to the parking lot and made a spectacle of emptying his pockets trying to prove his point. But there were only 3 people who could have had it: Dano, me, and the local. Take a guess which 2 didn't have it. He even made a mistake at one point in saying, "I didn't take your Iphone," without us ever saying the phone in question was actually an Iphone. I'm no police detective, but I've watched my fair share of Matlock and Murder, She Wrote to know that a slip of the tongue like that is pretty damning evidence of guilt. The locals were of course incredulous that we would ever accuse them of stealing. I think they even called us racist at some point. Who knew that 'process of elimination and deductive reasoning' were acts of racism? We called the police, but they were also of no use, especially given our rudimentary Spanish speaking. Hard to believe that not one of the other locals at the club was the least bit helpful. In fact, they were all kind of laughing at the fact we were in an accident, and not once did they ever ask if we were ok. Left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth about the type of human beings which live on Easter Island. I think the Moai statues would have been more helpful than these people.

All in all though, after the pictures I had taken that night of the Moai under the stars, my Easter Island experience was always going to be memorable. Standing face to face with 15 Moai, ocean in the background, ambient moonlight, stars above, and with only Dano and Pedro as company, I had gotten the unique experience I was looking for. Sometimes, all it takes is 1 picture to turn a trip from 'just another stop on a long journey' into something 'truly unforgettable.' Cheers.

Tongariki

Now for the picture gallery:

Easter Island

Galapagos Islands

really really old lava formations

local fish market observers

famous finches

marine iguanas

famous turtles

blue footed boobies

Cusco

Sacred Valley

sexy dude at the highest point on the Inca Trail

Not the top of the world, but it felt like it

Machu Picchu

My hiking buddy, Anina

The Inca Trail Gang. We all made it.

Top 2 sunset from my whole trip

Lake Titicaca

Train Graveyard on Uyuni Salt Flats

This is just a small sampling of the Uyuni Salt Flats pictures. There were more lagoons of various colors and a trip into the Atacama Desert. I'll leave some pics for a future post. I'm in Buenos Aires for the next couple of days and then off to Ushuaia, the starting point for my cruise to Antarctica. Continent 7 on this 7 continent trip is about 1 week away. Someone is getting excited.